Driven by new motivations that include concern for the environment and a desire for non-toxic ingredients and innovative formulas, there is an increasing demand for skincare that incorporates traditional Chinese medicine – both in China and abroad. For their latest market analysis paper, titled Health 养, Tong Global spoke to two female wellness brand founders about this growing trend
With Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) skincare trends proliferating on Chinese social media platforms such as RED (aka Xiaohongshu) and Douyin in recent years, it is not surprising that TCM products and routines started doing the rounds on Western socials as well. Browse skincare TikTok for even a few minutes, and a facial ‘guasha’ (traditional TCM massage technique) tutorial or Chinese medicine-inspired ‘health hack’ won’t be far from your feed.
Now, two female-founded skincare startups are bringing Eastern approaches to the Western market, tracking the fast-rising trend of TCM skincare as it starts to hit the global consciousness in an entirely new way.
US-based wellness brand Yina, founded by TCM practitioners Angela Chau Gray and Ervina Wu, promotes preventative skincare through the lens of ‘yangsheng’ (a cultural approach to traditional herbal medicine focused on nourishment and longevity). Muihood, founded by British-Chinese sisters Charlotte and Victoria Yau (a registered Chinese Medicine Practitioner specialising in acupuncture and women’s health), combines modern therapeutic skin care formulas with the rejuvenating effects of TCM ingredients to deliver high-efficacy solutions.
Tell us about the inspiration behind creating a TCM skincare brand. How did it come to be, and what does Chinese medicine mean to you?
Angela (Yina): We wanted to focus on creating high-quality, multi-faceted products that are rooted in Chinese medicine – a very real practice that’s been around for almost 3,000 years. ‘Yangsheng’ and Chinese medicine were part of my earliest memories. I remember TCM doctors were my primary care physicians; if anything was wrong, I’d [be taken to] have my tongue and pulse looked at. TCM herbal teas treated my ailments, and food and diet were the main form of preventative medicine. I still remember my mother telling me to avoid spicy and fried foods when I was ill. I definitely noticed the repercussions when I avoided her advice! So, wanting to understand how, what, and most importantly, why we do what we do culturally spearheaded my studies in Chinese medicine.
Charlotte (Muihood): I started Muihood to reconnect with my roots. As a British-born Chinese, I wanted to honour and celebrate the wisdom of TCM that has been passed down through generations. TCM has a rich history of holistic health and wellness, and I felt that it was an important cultural heritage I wanted to share with the world.
A selection of YINA products (Image: @yina.co on Instagram)
How do you approach educating Western consumers about the principles and benefits of TCM in skincare?
Angela (Yina): Wellness and beauty are not separate. Beautiful skin does not just appear out of nowhere. It’s the compounding results of good sleep, proper diet, movement, balanced hormones, and so much more. We post a lot of educational content on Instagram and host monthly masterclasses with TCM experts in the field.
Can you share how TCM principles are integrated into your skincare products, and what specific benefits they bring to the users?
Charlotte (Muihood): In our Good Chi Cleanser, for example, we incorporate TCM principles by using ingredients that have been used for centuries in traditional medicine. These ingredients are carefully selected for their proven benefits for the skin. Herbs like ginseng and goji berries are often used in TCM practice for their rejuvenating and nourishing properties. We combine these ingredients with modern skincare science to create products that are effective and representative of TCM traditions.
TCM has recently gone viral on Western social media for its preventative “health hacks”. Where do you think this trend evolved from? Is it a Western take on a Chinese tradition, or is it a trend characterised by the short-video nature of social media?
Angela (Yina): It’s a little bit of both, especially here in the US. Because of its long history, Chinese medicine has evolved, integrated, and grown with the population in such a way that it’s hard to separate it from the fabric of Chinese culture. You see a lot of Asian Americans sharing “health hacks” that they’ve learned from their parents or grandparents that are rooted in TCM. It’s worked brilliantly for them for so long that the “why” and “how” has often got lost over time. As TCM practitioners, this is where we step in to provide context and the reasoning behind these “hacks”. Wellness has been a hot topic in the last five years. Our modern lifestyle is just not quite supporting us in a vibrant way. We are all being inspired to take control of our lives and find what works; longevity with vibrancy is the goal.
Charlotte (Muihood): The viral interest in TCM on Western social media is a complex phenomenon. It’s partly a result of Western consumers seeking alternative approaches to health and wellness, and TCM’s focus on prevention and holistic wellbeing aligns with this.
The trend is rooted in traditional Chinese practices and has been adapted to fit a Western palate, but it’s important to acknowledge that TCM has been around for centuries, and this newfound Western interest is a continuation of its global influence. The digital age and the ease of information sharing have accelerated this evolution and made TCM more accessible to a younger and more global audience.
Muihood’s Good Chi Cleansing Balm
What challenges and opportunities have you encountered in promoting TCM to a Western audience?
Angela (Yina): Translating Eastern concepts to a Western audience can be difficult. The biggest challenge we’ve faced would be in tackling how to share complex TCM concepts in an easy-to-understand way without diluting too much of the medicine. To a Chinese audience, TCM is not unknown; it’s deeply integrated in culture and lifestyle habits. Presenting these concepts to a global marketplace is much harder, even though it’s a medicine practice that’s been tried and true for billions of individuals all over the world over several millennia! There are many people who feel like TCM is gimmicky and baseless. We see these challenges as an opportunity for Yina to share how there is a science and an art behind what we do, and why we’re elevating this medicine for the modern lifestyle. Plain and simple: it just works! We continue to remain true to our vision of creating multi-faceted products that will benefit your wellbeing, connecting you to a deeper understanding of self.
Looking ahead, what is your vision for the future of your brand and how do you anticipate the role of TCM evolving in the global skincare market?
Charlotte (Muihood): Our vision for Muihood is to continue celebrating the heritage of TCM and expanding its reach internationally. We see TCM playing an increasingly significant role in global skincare as consumers become more conscious of herbal and holistic beauty practices. We’re aiming to be a leader in this space, offering authentic TCM-based products while also contributing to the ongoing research and innovation in TCM skincare.
