As environmental, health and ethical concerns increase, more consumers are gravitating towards plant-based diets, and China is no exception. While vegetarianism has deep roots in China, a number of modern trends are transforming the market for plant-based foods and the food and beverage market as a whole
Historical background of plant-based diets in China
The consumption of vegetarian food in China is not a modern phenomenon. Buddhism, which entered China around 2,000 years ago, has had a significant influence, as many Buddhists in China practice vegetarianism as an extension of the religion’s teachings on compassion and non-harm.
Temples across China often run vegetarian restaurants, and traditional Chinese vegetarian dishes often aim to replicate the texture and taste of meat using ingredients like tofu, seitan, and mushrooms. This has given rise to a rich tapestry of vegetarian dishes that form an integral part of the Chinese culinary landscape.
However, meat consumption has long been a sign of status in China, and per capita consumption has shot up since the reform and opening up movement of the late 1970s started to push up people’s incomes. According to the USDA Foreign Agricultural Service, China is the largest consumer of meat in the world (understandable given its population size), and meat consumption has increased five-fold over the past 30 years.
The market for plant-based foods in China
Exact numbers on vegan and vegetarian diners in China can be elusive. Some estimates have suggested that 4-5% of China’s population identifies as vegetarian or vegan. With a population of over 1.4 billion, this translates to anywhere from 56 to 70 million people.
Whatever the number of people who eat a plant-based diet, it is clear that the market for plant-based food in China is experiencing significant growth.
In monetary terms, the vegetarian and vegan food market in China has grown from just under USD 10 billion in 2018 to USD 12 billion this year. Over the past 10 years or so, plant-based meat substitutes (usually made from plant-based proteins such as pea or soy) have contributed a lot to the growth of this market. In 2018, the Good Food Institute valued the market for plant-based meat substitutes in China at over USD 834 million, and this number is expected to increase by 20-25% every year.
Chinese millennials and Gen Z are the main driving force behind this growth, with around half of all millennials surveyed for a report by Bloomberg Businessweek and Starfield (a Chinese plant-based meat brand) stating that they consumed plant-based meat for health reasons.
An ad for Omnifoods’ plant-based ‘beef’ burger
Plant-based brands in the Chinese market
The Chinese market has seen a surge in the number of domestic brands offering plant-based products. Some of the leading names include Zhenmeat, Starfield and OmniFoods. These brands offer a variety of meat substitutes, ranging from pork to seafood, using ingredients such as soy, peas, and seaweed. The push towards alternative sources of protein has been supported by the Chinese government, and in a speech during the 2022 session of the 13th CPPCC National Committee, Xi Jinping encouraged agricultural officials to explore cell-cultured and plant-based protein sources in a bid to ensure food security.
Moreover, in 2023, the China Vegan Society introduced the China Vegan Food Certification (CVFC), the first programme of its kind in China, with the aim of standardising the vegan claims made by products and increasing consumer trust. The first batch of recipients includes Beijing-based dairy alternative startup, Yeyo.
Western brands have also identified the potential of China’s plant-based food market. Beyond Meat, one of the front runners in the plant-based meat sector, entered the Chinese market in 2020 and has since launched partnerships with big names in the food and beverage industry, such as Starbucks and KFC.
Swedish oat drink company Oatly has also seen massive success in the Chinese market. Oatly used a bottom-up, B2B approach targeting high-end coffee shops in cities like Beijing and Shanghai to establish its brand, before launching on Tmall in 2018. Since then, it has established a high-tech production in Ma’anshan, Anhui Province to keep up with demand.
Trends and prospects
Several factors suggest a promising future for the vegetarian and vegan food market in China:
- Growing interest in health and wellness: Modern urban Chinese consumers, especially the younger generations, are increasingly health-conscious. As China has seen a rise in lifestyle diseases (e.g., type 2 diabetes, hypertension, chronic liver disease, etc.), many view plant-based diets as a healthier alternative to traditional diets rich in meat and dairy.
- Rising environmental concerns: As China grapples with environmental challenges, the carbon footprint of the meat industry has come under scrutiny. Amos Tai, a Hong Kong-based professor of environmental science, told Al Jazeera that the five-fold increase in China’s per capita meat consumption has contributed to nearly 20% of the country’s air pollution. Plant-based diets are seen as more sustainable, although ultra-processed alternative meats still require a lot of energy to produce.
- Government initiatives: In 2016, the Chinese government announced a plan to cut the country’s meat consumption by 50% as part of its push to reach net zero by 2060. This endorsement, while not strictly pushing for vegetarianism, indicates a shift towards more plant-centric diets.
- Innovation and investment: As the market grows, there has been an influx of investments in alternative protein companies. In 2022, Shenzhen-headquartered plant-based meat company Starfield attracted a USD 100 million Series B investment round, the largest ever for a vegan protein brand in China. Increased investment in plant-based brands will encourage the creation of products that more closely mimic the taste and texture of real meat, making the transition easier for many consumers.
