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Exploring China’s body positivity movement

Just because beauty filters and digital avatars abound in China doesn't mean women are buying in to it: things are finally changing and foreign brands should take note ...

by Robynne Tindall
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For their latest market analysis paper, titled Health 养, Tong Global spoke to the real women behind China’s body positivity movement to uncover its origins and what it means for the future of health, beauty and feminism in the country

Last year, the hashtags “rejecting appearance anxiety” and “anti-appearance anxiety alliance” went viral on Chinese social media platform RED (aka Xiaohongshu), with creators sharing authentic videos and unedited images and unveiling their genuine selves in front of the camera. In a cultural shift mirroring the established Western sentiment, body positivity has finally gained traction on China’s social media platforms. From diverse posts showcasing unedited female bodies to championing comfortable clothing over runway trends, this movement is inspiring Gen Z social media users to embrace their unique sense of self, inside and out. Among them is RED user 冻感小鹅 ‘donggan xiao-e’, a makeup KOC who, over the past year, has begun sharing videos dedicated to revealing her unedited and unfiltered natural features, including natural skin and acne marks. These videos are some of her most popular, with one reaching 37,000 likes.

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Meanwhile, in London, Helena Yi, a fashion stylist renowned for crafting wearable mythical sculptures, is more than just a creative force. Committed to empowering individuals, Helena celebrates beauty in its myriad forms through her social media. Reflecting on her journey, Helena shares, “I’m never someone who fitted into the standard of beauty growing up, especially in China where the average size is smaller.” Sharing her styling expertise on social media, Helena received unexpected support, realising that many people shared her doubts and struggles, regardless of their ‘body size’. “Social media has evolved into two different directions,” she notes. “There’s the ‘very retouched’ content fuelling beauty anxiety, and then there’s the unedited side revealing our shared humanity and imperfections.”

Helena Yi (Instagram/@_shelenary_)

A number of trends have emerged from China’s new wave of body-positive content on social channels. The trending hashtag ‘#laotoufeng’ or ‘old man style’ embraces oversized men’s clothing and resonates with Chinese women who struggle to find clothes that fit according to typically petite Asian sizing systems. The recent “beauty duty” trend, where young women in China are shaving their hair, refraining from spending money on makeup, wearing comfortable clothing and nourishing their bodies rather than starving themselves to meet society’s ideal body type, can also be interpreted as a part of China’s body positivity wave, representing a generation of women prepared to accept themselves as they are, and prioritise self-fulfilment over stringent beauty standards.

“There’s a shift from traditional values to more individualistic and self-expression-focused ideals,” says Helena. “Being unique and creative is celebrated, thus leading to a more diverse concept when it comes to beauty.”

Beyond mere fashion, this trend reflects a broader social commentary, rejecting gender norms. The term ‘weipang’, meaning ‘a little bit fat’, is gaining prominence as a symbol of body confidence, with the hashtag ‘midsize outfit’ on RED reaching over 7.8 billion views. This demand has led to the growth of “Midsize Influencers” characterised by bodies that don’t conform to ultra-thin standards but also don’t fit the ‘plus-size’ label, who are challenging prevailing body image norms. Helena believes this is closely connected to Gen Z values and the increased globalisation that comes with social media.

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“Gen Z are much more welcoming to diversity in beauty, and there are more elements which used to be viewed as imperfections now being accepted as beauty,” she explains. “Social media brings exposure to diverse body images from around the world and helps connect peers who share similar experiences and points of view towards beauty. Even the platforms themselves are taking notice of this movement.”

In response to this shift in user-generated content, RED recently held an event entitled “大家时装周” (everybody fashion week), where they invited a diverse range of bloggers of all genders, sizes and ages, to participate as models in a runway show. And Chinese brands are following suit.

Chinese intimate apparel brand NEIWAI has been a runaway success in recent years, built on a proposition of championing female body diversity in China.

“I especially enjoy NEIWAI’s campaigns,” explains Helena, “The inclusiveness of the brand is amazing! One of my favourite campaigns was the “No Body is Nobody”, where they invited 30 women to document how their body interacts with and folds with the clothing.”

NEIWAI’s women’s day campaign this year addressed the connection between mind and body through the medium of dance. Ruiqi Yang, a digital marketing executive based in London, believes the campaign resonates with young Chinese women because it rekindles the connection between women’s bodies and their mind: “It reverses the subject and object, it’s our bodies asking the questions.”

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Chinese brand “An Action A Day (AAAD)” is an emerging athleisure brand with body positivity at the forefront of its campaigns. Its content features real, individual women modelling a diverse range of sizes. Their latest post on the official brand RED account introduces followers to “Max” with a lengthy caption: “Max is one of the five models we photographed. Many people think we had Max play the role of a ‘big girl’. This is a complete misunderstanding. We asked her to portray herself. When Max’s friend struggled with appearance anxiety, Max said: ‘Don’t be confined by others’ gaze; boldly do what you want to do.’ Every girl should pursue a more free and comfortable life.”

The success of NEIWAI and AAAD’s campaigns underscores the significance of going beyond traditional beauty standards. By incorporating diverse perspectives, addressing mental wellbeing and fostering a unique sense of individuality and community, Western brands can tap into the evolving preferences of young Chinese women. Embracing these trends will not only resonate with this audience but also contribute to a more positive and empowering global narrative around beauty and self-expression.

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