Juliet Kuo takes a closer look at China’s booming beauty market
History and tradition have shaped the Chinese beauty market we see today. Over 3,000 years ago, make-up was worn and nails were painted to indicate social status. Facial powders made from rice were used to whiten skin, and lipstick made from beeswax and natural oils were worn to enhance looks. Such traditions continued for centuries, up until the 1960s, when they were deemed decadent and the practise of wearing make-up was temporarily halted. It wasn’t until 1978 when, alongside China’s ‘opening up’, Chinese consumers rediscovered their love of beauty products. By 2014, China’s beauty market had annual retail sales of £20.5 billion.
Opportunity in localisation
So how can UK brands position themselves in the best way possible to enter the China market? The answer lies in localisation. David Hampstead, CEO at Samarkand Global, a provider of international trade and marketing solutions, says companies entering the Chinese beauty market should adapt to Chinese convention. “Some products may not be suitable based on traditional Chinese beliefs, while others may work,” he says. “For example, Chinese women are not supposed to wash their hair for a period after giving birth, which opens up opportunities for products like dry shampoo.”
South Korean products are highly sought after in China, due to its close proximity and use of natural ingredients, in particular snail slime, with supposed anti-ageing properties. Conglomerate Amore Pacific, owner of beauty brands innisfree and Etude House, has identified this as a particularly popular strategy. Many UK beauty brands also follow this trend, including Liz Earle, who uses natural active ingredients; Elemis, which uses avocado oil and assai palm fruit for their antioxidant properties, and apricot for its vitamin C content; and Oskia, which uses bio-available nutrients and bio-actives.
With China’s popular ideal for female beauty summarised in the expression “白富美” (literally “white, rich and beautiful”), skin whitening products are particularly popular. Many western brands have adapted their ranges to suit the Chinese market by offering skin whitening products, such as Elizabeth Arden New York, a perfume, cosmetics and skin care brand, and its White Glove Skincare line. Extreme temperatures and high-pollution levels that are an all too common occurrence in many major Chinese cities lead to a demand for SPF and anti-pollutants in products, something the luxury candle and beauty product manufacturer, Jo Malone London has already considered in the products it sells. For example, Jo Malone’s Vitamin E Moisturising Day Crème protects skin from cold weather, pollution and UV rays; a particularly appealing combination in China.
Challenges facing UK brands in the beauty market
Despite the many opportunities available in the Chinese beauty market, many challenges remain.
Animal testing, which is necessary for cosmetic products in China, is one challenge. Although products sold through e-commerce platforms do not require this, Hampstead explains that: “the general public don’t understand the nuance between cross-border rules and domestic sales.” If customers see products on these platforms, they may believe the brand to have been tested on animals.
However, regulation amendments in this area have been underway since 2013. Vian Fang, Head of Business Development in the cosmetics department at Reach24h, an international consultancy firm, says, “we are studying the latest technology for evaluating product safety. So far, two alternative methods have been accepted and two have been issued for public consultation.”
“In particular snail slime is very popular, with supposed anti-ageing properties”
The power of digital platforms and the blogging world
Chinese consumers’ tendency to research products has precipitated the success of China’s social media influencers, particularly apparent in the beauty market. Icons like film star, Yao Chen, who has over 50 million Weibo followers, and beauty influencers Chonny and Lu Yi Si, with 2.7 million and 1.3 million respectively, will frequently post about beauty. By providing links to products, promotion updates, and other information about beauty products, these individuals can affect a wide audience. Rafael Jimenez, Business Development Advisor at the EU SME Centre in Beijing, highlights the importance of such platforms saying, “online platforms provide tens, hundreds, sometimes even thousands of opinions about a brand.”
At Samarkand Global, to market their products Hampstead uses Little Red Book, a start-up e-commerce site, WeChat and low-level influencers, who are cheaper to use, and often are willing to accept free products as an incentive.
Burberry stands out for its use of digital marketing by launching a Chinese language webpage and utilising Chinese social media platforms. Its Beauty Box, launched in 2015, comprised a digital lip and nail bar shoppers to test out colours on their skin tones using Radio-Frequency Identification technology.
UK brands are increasingly realising the potential of WeChat, which includes a function to pay online, and Alipay, an online payment app. The London retailer, Harrods accepts Alipay and is soon to accept WeChat pay; Selfridges and The Body Shop are also now compatible with Alipay, so as to attract Chinese tourists looking for an effortless shopping experience.
E-commerce platforms, such as Little Red Book, which focuses on beauty, cosmetics and luxury products; jumei.com, a vertically integrated platform; and Tmall and JD, leading cross-border e-commerce platforms, provide a way to enter the Chinese market with a lower level of risk. Jimenez suggests using WeChat for cross-border sales; it allows a brand to sell products directly, gain control over their supply chain, design targeted marketing campaigns, and does not require a legal entity to be created.
CBBC works closely with the Department of International Trade on projects introducing beauty and skincare products to China. “CBBC has been involved in projects including a beauty pop-up campaign on JD Worldwide, a seminar on accessing the Chinese beauty market and supporting Cosmoprof, a leading beauty trade show in Hong Kong”, says Demi Ping, Director of Retail and E-commerce at CBBC.
From beeswax 3,000 years ago to snail slime today, China’s unique environment, both geographically and digitally, has shaped its beauty market.
