As China’s middle class grows more sophisticated, luxury is evolving. For British brands, the challenge is to stay relevant without diluting their heritage
Once a rarefied pursuit of the few, luxury in China is undergoing a subtle but profound transformation. Over the past two decades, global luxury brands from Burberry to Bottega Veneta have raced to establish themselves in the world’s second-largest economy. The assumption was simple: as China’s middle class expanded, so too would demand for high-end goods. But this narrative is shifting.
Today, luxury in China is no longer defined by price tags or foreign logos alone. It is increasingly shaped by access, values, and evolving consumer identities. British brands hoping to capture or retain market share must understand not only the changing economic landscape but also how Chinese consumers are redefining what luxury means.
Luxury beyond the logo
The early 2010s saw luxury sales in China surge, fuelled by a growing cohort of affluent urban consumers. This gave rise to what was sometimes caricatured as logo-driven consumption: high-profile purchases of recognisable Western labels, often as status symbols. Yet over time, Chinese consumers have become more discerning. They are better travelled, more digitally connected, and more brand-savvy. This, says Meimei Zhao, Founder of intercultural branding agency Variety Plus, reflects a natural evolution.
“The very definition of luxury means it will never become a mass-market product simply because of the rise of a particular consumer class in any one market,” Zhao explains. “About a decade ago, China was indeed seen as a fiercely contested market for luxury brands. But I believe that was more a reflection of a particular stage in China’s economic development, rather than a sign of permanent mass adoption.”
Today’s Chinese consumers increasingly reject the notion of luxury as ostentation. Instead, they seek authenticity, craftsmanship and cultural meaning. That doesn’t mean the appetite for premium products is waning. Rather, it is being expressed differently, with a focus on quality, story, and personalised experience.
This shift has prompted commentators to describe China as “democratising luxury” not in the sense of making it cheap or ubiquitous, but by expanding who luxury is for, and how it is understood. It also reflects a generational change. Younger consumers, especially Gen Z and post-95s, are less interested in traditional luxury status symbols and more drawn to lifestyle values, sustainability and self-expression.
The rise of “accessible luxury”
Global consultancy Bain & Company has tracked this evolution. According to its 2023 China Luxury Report, while luxury spending in China is set to recover after the pandemic, it will be driven less by conspicuous consumption and more by niche, lifestyle-led preferences. Domestic and lesser-known brands have started gaining traction, and international labels must now compete not only on prestige but on values.
This has led to the rise of “accessible luxury”, products that maintain high standards of quality and design but are not priced out of reach for upper-middle-class consumers. Examples include the success of brands like Coach and Longchamp, or the recent popularity of niche fragrance brands such as Le Labo and Jo Malone.
The trend also plays out online. Social commerce platforms like Xiaohongshu and livestreaming on Taobao have enabled more consumers to engage with luxury in a personal and interactive way. Rather than gatekeeping the luxury experience, these channels offer consumers the tools to explore, compare and curate their own tastes—further democratising the sector.
Opportunity meets complexity
But for foreign brands, this democratisation brings both opportunity and challenge. Yang Ding, Founder of New Silk Route Digital, which promotes British brands in China, warns that the playing field is more competitive than ever.
“This trend creates a vast new customer base, but also fierce competition,” he says. “British brands must lean into their core strengths — heritage, quality, and brand narrative — rather than joining a race to the bottom on pricing. They should not only think about the current opportunity, but build their relevance for China’s future generations.”
This relevance may lie in a brand’s backstory. British luxury is often defined by legacy and craftsmanship — values that resonate strongly with Chinese consumers when told well. For instance, Fortnum & Mason’s tea traditions or Barbour’s waxed jackets carry cultural weight that extends beyond the product itself. When communicated through the right channels — via influencers, livestreams, and curated experiences — such stories can offer a unique appeal in a crowded market.
Zhao agrees. “As Chinese consumers become more experienced and sophisticated in their approach to luxury, they’re also becoming more rational and better able to appreciate truly great products,” she says. “In this context, many British heritage brands with long histories — some over a hundred years — continue to thrive and are still highly valued by Chinese consumers.”
Post-pandemic shifts
The COVID-19 pandemic further accelerated this shift in consumer mindset. With outbound tourism largely halted between 2020 and 2023, domestic consumption became more important than ever. Luxury brands responded by investing heavily in their China presence: launching local boutiques, hiring Mandarin-speaking staff, and developing country-specific campaigns.
But even as international travel resumes, Chinese consumers are not simply reverting to pre-pandemic behaviours. There’s greater expectation for localisation, tailored storytelling, and omnichannel experiences. From store design to digital presence, brands are expected to understand local tastes, engage in culturally relevant ways, and demonstrate a long-term commitment to the market.
At the same time, macroeconomic headwinds are tempering spending. According to the IMF, China’s GDP growth is expected to moderate to around 4.6% in 2025, reflecting property sector woes and subdued global demand. Consumers, especially younger ones, are more cautious with their money, making value for money — and emotional connection — more critical than ever.
What British brands should do next?
So, how should British luxury brands respond? First, don’t assume old rules apply. Price alone does not define luxury in China. Nor does mere foreignness guarantee desirability. Instead, invest in cultural literacy. Understand the values that matter to today’s Chinese consumers: identity, well-being and individuality.
Second, tell your story well. Whether it’s a 19th-century craftsman’s technique or a Queen’s warrant, heritage must be made emotionally resonant. Chinese consumers respond to authenticity but it must be made relevant, not just historical.
Third, go digital but do it smartly. Partnering with the right influencers (KOLs) or livestreamers can amplify your message, but the choice must align with your brand’s tone and values. Be ready to localise not just the language, but the messaging.
Finally, think long term. As Yang Ding puts it, the key is to “build your relevance for China’s future generations.” That means resisting the urge to over-expand or chase short-term returns. Instead, focus on brand consistency, community building, and cross-generational engagement.
A shifting but enduring allure
China may be democratising luxury but it is not diluting it. If anything, the market is becoming more discerning. The opportunity for British brands lies not in mass appeal, but in meaningful connection. Those who adapt with integrity, by staying true to their heritage while embracing local innovation, can thrive in this complex, fast-moving landscape.
In doing so, they may find that their definition of luxury evolves too, not just as a product, but as an experience, a feeling, and a relationship that grows across borders and generations.
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